Letters from Montmartre
During my visit to Paris in June, I met a charming older couple, Vincent and Monique, in the Montmartre neighborhood. It all occurred during a chance encounter late one evening as we were all exiting the Paris Metro.
My French friends, Emma and Thomas, and I had just returned from taking the Bateaux Mouches boat ride on the River Seine. Seeing Paris from this vantage point is magical-day or night. We departed at dusk which is about 9-10 pm in Paris during the summer. We returned from the boat ride at about 11:30 pm. On our return to our neighborhood, we strolled along the Champs Elysées in the evening, the Arc du Triomphe in the background. Then we crossed the Place de la Concorde to enter the Metro, taking the number 12 to Montmartre. The weather was a balmy 90 degrees F in the late evening.
When we made our arrival at our Metro stop, Lamarck - Caulaincourt, in Montmartre, Emma and Thomas and I exited the Metro and began our walk to a neighborhood café for a late nite bite. Across the street from the exit was a scene that captured my attention. It was an outdoor café, illuminated by the light from within. Dozens of café patrons sitting outdoors were doing exactly what we had in mind: enjoying a late night dinner in an outdoor café—de riguer à Paris!
Well, so captivated by this setting, I stopped to capture a photograph. My imagination of the conversations taking place filled my mind. I felt the scene was at once was equally cinematic as it was an interesting subject for a painting.
Metropolitaine. The metro stop Lamarck - Caulaincourt.
Watercolor on paper. 4x6.” 2022.
As I was working my composition in my viewfinder, stepping backwards to get the scene just right. I heard “Attention!” I looked over my left shoulder and saw a scholarly gentleman who shouted his warning to me to be careful…as I was about ready to back up right in to he and his companion.
Immediately I said « Je suis désolée! » (“I am so sorry!!!) « Je suis Americaine. Je suis artiste. Je fais des idees pour des peintures. » (“I am an American. I am an artist. I am getting ideas for a painting.)
I have a few French phrases that helped me out immensely during my trip. I insist on speaking French when possible even though natives can hear my accent and wish to speak English. I say « en Francais s’il vous plaît . » (“In French please.) “Je parle un peu de français mais j’essaye parler en française.” (“I speak a little French by I try to speak in French.”) It works every time as a mode of diffusing the tension and awkwardness of the language barrier that can sometimes arise. The natives then switch to French. Then, after hearing the phrase in French, I say « Maintenant, en anglais, s’il vous plait. » (“Now in English, please.” ) Hearing the sentences in both languages helps me to learn a foreign language. This is how I engaged with Vincent, the gentleman who shouted “Attention!” to me. My sincere apology coupled with my efforts to speak in French helped me to establish a rapport and reduced any irritation I may have caused as a foreign tourist who almost backed into Vincent and Monique without paying any attention to my immediate surroundings.
Well, the five of us, Emma et Thomas, Vincent et Monique, walked together—us towards our café, Vincent and Monique towards their flat. Two languages were being spoken at the same time—French and English—as we found ourselves in mini groups of conversation. Vincent and I spoke in English and in French.
After telling Vincent and Monique of my purpose for visiting Paris is to make sketches of Montmartre for future paintings, they said I could come to their apartment that has an excellent view of Sacré Cœur. Monique said that years ago, when she was a young girl, her family was poor and her mother worked in the building as a housekeeper. Monique now owns an apartment in this building and every day she feels this connection to her mère and of her own early story by living in this building.
Drawing from my journal. I am taking a café allongée on the Rue Custine. The stairs ahead are on the Rue de Mont Cenis and take one up to Sacré Cœur. June 2022.
The next morning I arranged a time to arrive at the apartment. Vincent gave me the code to the building and said “I will await at the door with pleasure.”
I headed out for the day going from my friends’ flat on Rue de Mont Cenis to Rue Custine and to the flat of Monique and Vincent.
Upon my arrival, Vincent indeed was waiting for me at the front door as I exited the elevator. Immediately, we exchanged the double kiss French greeting. Vincent offered to make me a café. I requested a café allongée (which is also called a Café American.)
Monique was at choir practice at Église Sainte-Jean de Montmartre on the Rue d’Abbesses during this time. Interestingly, I had previously seen a flyer for a concert at the église, which was the concert for which Monique was practicing. I couldn’t attend the performance because I was en route to Lyon on the weekend of the performance. But I did collect a hand bill as a souvenir..
View of Sacré Cœur chez Monique. June 2022.
Vincent showed me the view of Sacré Cœur which was stunning. We were on the 6th floor of the building so the view of Sacré Cœur in the distance is more at eye level. What is very interesting is you also get a view of the stunning rooftops of Paris « les toits » which are also a marvel and the subject of many paintings and photographs. Vincent also showed me the view from the other side of the apartment that goes beyond Paris into the suburbs.
Rear window view from a private apartment. Paris, Montmartre, June 2022.
My café allongée was ready. I stayed for about 20 minutes. I managed to get a few quick sketches as well as some photographs. I thanked Vincent and said to extend my thanks to Monique.
Sketching from Chez Monique looking towards Sacre Coeur. June 2022.
I made a postcard of the view and sent it to Monique as my gesture of deep appreciation of their hospitality.
A suivre….(to be continued…)
“View of Sacre Coeur from a private apartment, Montmartre, Paris, France.”
Watercolor on paper, 4x6.” 2022.
Mary Lamery is a lifelong resident of Seattle, Washington, USA and native of the Pacific Northwest.
Lamery paints regional landscape and makes drawings in a manner that leans towards 19th century French Impressionism.
Her landscapes and drawings invite the viewer to add to the backstory of the composition through personal identification with the paintings and story telling of the experience.
Mary’s drawings and paintings are featured at her storefront Artist Residency at the Fairmont Olympic Hotel, Seattle, Washington though 2022.